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Poor - The number of poor who receive a stated monthly allowance from the Parochial funds, is sixteen, all of whom, one excepted, reside in the village. It is usual also, in the winter season, to give occasional supplies of meal and coals, to families who may be in difficult circumstances, but whose names are not on the poor's role.
There is now no assessment for their maintenance. This has been unnecessary for some years past, as supplies abundantly sufficient have been obtained another way.
George Moir, Esq. of Leckie, now deceased, generously added to the poor's stock in 1788. Being of the Scotch Episcopal communion, he seldom attended the Established church. He saw however, and he had the humanity to acknowledge, that the poor of the parish suffered a loss, by his absence; and when he gave the sum above mentioned, he said" he was only paying what he owed them". It is to be wished, that wealthy heritors who either do not reside upon their estates, or who are too much in the habit of being absent from the church, would imitate him, in this instance, and consider the case of the poor, who must sustain a loss, when those in affluent circumstances withhold their weekly collections at the church. The chief resource for supplying the poor in this parish, and in almost every parish in Scotland, arises from the collections made at the church on the Lord's day.
At the same time there are perhaps few country parishes in Scotland, where there is more ample provision for the necessities of the poor, than in Gargunnock. The capital stock belonging to the Kirk Session, amounts to £365 Sterling, the interest of which, together with the collections, mort-cloth money, the fees paid at marriages, baptisms, &c. afford the widow, and the fatherless, the aged and infirm, a considerable portion of the necessities of life.
An addition was made to the funds of the poor in 1784, by a very singular circumstance. Two old women, sisters, who lived in the village of Gargunnock, had for many years, every appearance of extreme indigence; though without making any application for assistance from the parish. One of them at last, applied to be received on the poor's list; and as no doubt was entertained of her poverty, she received four shillings per month. She died about six months after the commencement of her pension.
On examining her bed cloathes, one purse (of gold and silver), was found after another, till the sum amounted to upwards of forty pounds sterling. Some old chests and barrels were found stored with beef, meal, cheese, and various other kinds of provision; and it was evident that the poor woman had lived in great affluence. The relations of the deceased, on hearing of the discovery, came from a distance, to lay claim to her effects. But according to the settled rule of the parish, she had bequeathed all her effects to the poor, at the time she was received on to the poor's list. One half was allowed to be the property of the sister, who had received no pension from the parish. The other half became the property of the Kirk Session, to the great mortification of the relations; who certainly deserved this disappointment, as they had taken no notice of the deceased, while she lived.
The care of the poor is laid on the Kirk Session. A committee is appointed to enquire into the circumstances of those who petition for supply; and more or less is granted, according as the case seems to require. Few have less than half a crown per month; while four, five, six, and in some cases, even ten shillings are distributed to those, who are absolutely helpless. A person must reside in the parish, at least three years, before he can be entitled to the public charity.
No public begging is allowed. We are often harassed by vagrants from other places; but they are not permitted to acquire a residence in the parish. One seldom gives them anything, without having cause to repent it. They spend everything they receive at the first alehouse; and for the rest of the day they become a public nuisance. The constables are called, who see them out of the parish; but this does not operate as a punishment, while they are still at liberty. It would be of great advantage, if in every parish, there was some place of confinement for people of this description, to keep them in awe, when they might be inclined to disturb the peace of the town, or of the neighbourhood.
Church - The church was rebuilt in 1774, is very neatly fitted up, and in excellent repair. On the top of the east gable, there is the figure of a cross, and on the west, that of a crescent. These were upon the gables of the old church, and have been replaced upon the new. This might have given offence a century ago; but the people are now wiser than to quarrel with a stone of any shape or appearance.
The manse, which was built for a bachelor, is too small for the accommodation of a family. Few houses of the kind, however, are more pleasantly situated. There is a good garden. The soil and the exposure are so favourable, that crops and fruits, of various kinds, are reaped from it earlier than from any other in the parish. The stipend is about £80 sterling, with a glebe of 6 acres. Col. Eidingtoun, the proprietor of Gargunnock estate, is the patron.
Parish School - The schoolhouse is situated on a rising ground, at the West End of the village. It has two floors, the first for the school, the second for the habitation of the schoolmaster. During the winter season, there may be 50 or 60 scholars; and yet the whole income, including salary, perquisites as Session clerk, and school fees, scarcely amounts annually to £16. The reading of English is taught for a merk Scots per quarter, writing and arithmetic for 2 shillings; fees, which are by no means adequate to the troublesome talk of the matter. When a man decently qualified submits to the drudgery of training up children in several important branches of education, common sense must revolt at the idea of his being in a worse situation than the day-labourer. It is hoped something will be done for a better provision to the masters of parish schools.
Village - The village, consisting of some 90 houses, chiefly of one floor, and thatched, is situated on the side of a hill, part of the barony of Gargunnock. The military road from Stirling to Dumbarton, passes through it. The best inn upon the road is here, few houses of that kind are kept is such good order. It is kept remarkably clean and neat, a circumstance not very common in houses of the same description.
Each inhabitant has a small garden. The one half of the property belonging to the village was feued out about 50 years ago, at the rate of 20 shillings sterling per acre, the other half at a later period was feued at 40s. There is no kind of trade or manufacture in the village; not even a grocery shop that deserves the name. Supplies of all the necessary articles are got from Stirling weekly or by carriers from Edinburgh or Glasgow. There are some weavers, taylors, and shoemakers, and the other inhabitants are chiefly day-labourers.
Much inconvenience arose from the want of a surgeon, but this is now removed. Dr Moir of Leckie the first heritor, and a gentleman of great eminence in his profession, is ever ready to give his advice and assistance to the villagers without a fee. There is no writer or attorney among them. When any dispute arises, which is very seldom, it is either settled by the Minister, or by Mr Graham of Micklewood, a justice of the peace, in whose judgement parties acquiesce.
Antiquities - A little southwards of the village, there is a conical height called the Keir-Hill, which is evidently artificial, and seems to have been a military work. There are remains of a ditch or rampart of a circular form, which proves that it is not of Roman origin. It is probably of later date, and appears to have been the place from which Sir William Wallace sallied forth on the night when he took by surprise the Peel of Gargunnock.
In one of the dryfields of Boquhan, some pieces of brass armour and points of spears were found a few years ago by a tenant, when digging for limestone. A great quantity of human bones were also discovered in the same spot, the remains probably of the slain at the battle of Ballochleam, which was fought in the adjoining fields.
There is no object of natural curiosity in this parish equal to the glen of Boquhan. The road made on the east side by the present proprietor, leads to a most romantic view. But, if a person has leisure and perseverance to descend and walk along the bottom of the glen, at the field of Oldhall, he will be surprised at every step, with a scene perfectly wild, as though nature were in ruins.
Local Disadvantages - The parish is situated on the north side of the hill. In the higher part of the dryfields, the sun is not seen during the winter months. Coal must be brought from Bannockburn, 10 miles distant; for although marks of coal can be observed in several places within the parish, no attempts have been made to discover it. The tenants on the banks of the Forth have boats, but these in their present state are found inconvenient and dangerous for horses and loaded carts. a bridge is much wanted near the lands of Micklewood. The one at the ford of Frew does not sufficiently accommodate the inhabitants of a tract of fertile country, for many miles on both sides of the river.
Roads - The military road from Stirling to Dumbarton, made betwixt 30 and 40 years ago, and which passes through the centre of this parish, is now by Act of Parliament to have a new line of direction, and to be made a turnpike road. It is hoped the trustees will confine the exercise of their power to what is immediately useful and necessary.
Any alterations in order to avoid heights, or to lessen the distance, where that can be conveniently done, would be readily submitted to by all, from the evident advantage resulting from them. But, if new lines of considerable length are proposed, where the grounds must be purchased and reinclosed; or, if the road shall be so formed as to render plantations and improvements useless, which have been carrying on for years in the faith that the present line of road was to be permanent; if it shall be so directed, as to abandon a number of thriving villages, or so unnecessarily widened as to break in upon many beautiful strips of planting, by which means a debt must be incurred that can only be repaid by a heavy toll on the coal and the lime, it is doubtful, whether the good or the evil of such alterations would preponderate.
The trustees have no interest but to act for the general advantage of the country, and there is no reason to doubt that this will be the object of their chief attention.
Game &c. - In this parish there are heath fowl, hares, and partridges.
The commencement of partridge shooting, as early as the beginning of September, is very often a cause of their scarcity, as the tenants are tempted to destroy the eggs for the sake of the crops, which are sometimes much injured by the sportsmen and dogs.
The cleft of Ballochleam is still remarkable for the hawks, for which it was in great request in former times, when falconry was in fashion.
A crow, perfectly white, was found last spring on a tree at Boquhan.
The farmer suffers a real loss by flocks of pigeons which cover his fields in feed time, and make frequent visits to his wheat before it is cut down; and thinks a tax on pigeon houses would be a wise measure.
Diseases - Rheumatism, fevers, consumptions, are the chief disorders of the more aged inhabitants, and the small-pox, the measles, and whooping cough, of the young. Not a few are afflicted with the scrophula, but the people have little conception of its effects on their posterity. There is still an unlucky prejudice against innoculating against the small-pox, while the people have a strong inclination to frequent the house where the disease exists, not perceiving, that by doing so they communicate their infection to their children as effectually, and a thousand times more fatally than by lancet. Dr Moir inoculates gratis, and has had considerable influence in reconciling the common people to a practice, which god in his providence hath remarkably blessed for the preservation of the human race.
It is difficult to determine whether the carse or the dryfield, be most favourable to health. Some have live to a great age in both; but it is certain, that as the tenants of the carse have the greatest share of labour, so they seem most capable of enduring it; and if a greater degree of labour supported with vigour indicates health, or promotes it, it may be conjectured, that the carse is fully as healthful as the dryfield. It would perhaps be of advantage, if those who are most exposed to fatigue, to cold, or to moisture, would use a cotton, instead of a linen shirt. It might contribute to prevent those rheumatic complaints, to which they are so often subject.
Price of labour, wages, &c. - A few years ago, a man servant for the farm, who lived with the farmer, could have been found for 5 or 6 pounds sterling per year, but now 10 or 12 are given. Women servants who lately were engaged at £2-10s are now scarcely satisfied with £4. Their purse is just as empty as before, but there is a material change in their article of dress. The day labourer who once wrought at six-pence or eight-pence per day, now receives a shilling, and in seedtime and harvest, his victuals besides. Last harvest, 1794, the wages rose to sixteen and eighteen pence per day, besides victuals, which is by far the highest rate of wages remembered in this country.
The day-wage men for the whole parish reside in the village. They are called forth to their labour in the morning, by the sound of pipe or drum, and have the same signal when they retire in the evening. They are a sober industrious contented set of men, and though their food be simple, and their dress and dwellings mean, it is believed that they have more real enjoyment, than those who are in the more elevated situations.
Food and dress - The aged inhabitants are surprised at the change in the article of living, and what is evidently a proof of the wealth of the country, is unreasonably the subject of their lamentation. It is seldom that any of them live beyond their income. The other extreme ought also to be avoided. More is expected than the poorest fare, and the meanest dress from men of opulence. When the farmer is only careful how he may lend his money, and add to his stock, and lives at home as penuriously as when he had nothing, he denies himself the proper use of the bounty of Providence, and is really poor in the midst of his prosperity. There are few such in this parish. They all assemble at church, clean, and in decent attire; many of the women in black cloaks and bonnets and the younger sort adorned with ribbons. It gives general disgust, however, when the dress is unsuitable to the station. There is sometimes a contention for pre-eminence in gaudy shew, which is severely censured, especially when the maidservant cannot be distinguished from the mistress.
All the men, with very few exceptions, wear hats, and what may be thought remarkable, there is only one wig in the whole parish. Tea is universally used. Even the poorest families have it occasionally, and the last cup is qualified with a little whisky, which is supposed to correct all the bad effects of the tea. There are few families without some butcher meat laid up for the winter. All agree, that they are better clothed and fed than their forefathers; and seem contented with the lot assigned them.
Price of Provisions - Oatmeal is from 15s to 17s Sterling per boll. Peas and barley meal about 10s per boll; potatoes, corn measure, 5s per boll; butter 12s per stone; common cheese 4s, and a better kind made on Saturday's evening 5s 6d. per stone; poultry at a reasonable price. A good fowl may be got for 1s sterling; eggs at 4d per dozen. The price of necessaries in this parish varies according to the demand at Stirling on market days.
Great scarcity was apprehended in 1783, through the failure of the preceding crop; but upon the return of peace, a large quantity of white peas being commissioned from England by a man of public spirit, and grinded into meal, assisted the other expedients which were then adopted to prevent a famine in this part of the kingdom.
Character, Manners, and Customs - The character of the inhabitants of this parish is sobriety. They profess to fear God, and honour the king. In their deportment they are grave, and in their speech considerate. They are remarkably attached to the institutions of religion, and all of them, (22 persons excepted) worship together at the parish church. During the late attempt of designing men to throw the country into confusion, not an individual in the parish joined the clubs of pretended reformers, or showed the least disaffection to our happy constitution. The only reform they wish, is in their own persons and families, where they acknowledge there are many things that need to be corrected; but they leave affairs of state to those who are lawfully appointed to govern. There has been no one here charged with any capital crime for a long course of years. The minister's garden is situated near the high road and might easily be plundered, and yet he cannot say that he has been robbed of a single apple, since he came to the parish, upwards of 7 years ago. There is very seldom any occasion for church discipline; no cause has been carried from the session to the presbytery for many years.
The sacrament of the Lord's supper is dispensed twice in every year. And as there is no stated allowance to defray the expense of the communion in winter, the parishioners cheerfully contribute for this purpose.
Young and old are distinguished for polite attention to strangers. Men of superior rank have a respectful bow from every one they meet; for people here have not been taught the new doctrine of liberty and equality.
It is seldom there are social meetings. Marriages, baptisms, funerals, and the conclusion of the harvest, are almost the only occasions for fealting. At these times there is much unnecessary expense. Marriages usually happen in April and November. The month of May is cautiously avoided. A principal tenant's son or daughter has a croud of attendants at marriage, and the entertainments lasts for two days at the expense of the parties. The company at large pay for the music.
The manner of conducting funerals in the country needs much amendment. From the death to the internment, the house is thronged by night and day, and the conversation is often very unsuitable to the occasion. The whole parish is invited form 10 o'clock in the forenoon of the day of the funeral, but it is soon enough to attend at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. Everyone is entertained with a variety of meats and drinks. Not a few return to the dirge, and sometimes forget what they have been doing, and where they are. Attempts have been lately made to provide a remedy for this evil; but old customs are not easily abolished.
The dregs of superstition are still to be found. The less informed suspect something like witchcraft about poor old women; and are afraid of their evil eye among the cattle. If a cow is suddenly taken ill, it is ascribed to some extraordinary cause. If a person, when called to see one, does not say, "I wish her luck," there would be a suspicion he had some bad design. It is but just to say, that the generality of the people are superior to these vulgar prejudices, though the traces of them are still to be found.
There is one prevailing custom among our country people; which is sometimes productive of much evil. Every thing is bought and sold over a bottle. The people, who go to the fair, in the full possession of their faculties, do not always transact their business, or return to their homes, in the same state.
It is but justice, however, to say, that a disposition to virtue, industry, loyalty and peace, characterises the inhabitants of the parish of Gargunnock.
Valuation - The valuation of the whole parish is £4127:15:2d Scottish money; but the real rental is above £3000 Sterling. About 30 years ago, it was only half of that sum. There is now an increase at every term. No farm is now let without an additional rent. Applications are made for the farm, long before the lease expires. The separate estates, which comprehend the whole parish, are Leckie and Kepdarroch, Boquhan, Gargunnock, Micklewod, Redhall, and Culmore.
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